Through the Heart of India
– Final Part: Back in Varanasi
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September 19, 2025. We set out from Ayodhya in the morning and arrived in Varanasi by afternoon. The Ganga was no longer the raging, destructive force it had been ten days prior; it had calmed down considerably. Although the banks were still coated in a thick layer of silt, the water level had receded.
We headed straight to Namo Ghat, walking along narrow paths that visitors had trodden into the mud-covered banks. Boats had not yet been launched back into the river. While there wasn't a massive crowd, plenty of people were visiting, and the local vendors were full of energy—eager to recover the business lost over the preceding days.
At Namo Ghat, the iconic sculpture features figures of a man, a woman, and a child with their hands joined in prayer (anjali mudra), cleverly designed to create the illusion that their bodies are submerged deep within the river. Despite the uncomfortable midday heat, we took several photographs. Watching trains constantly speed across the iron bridge spanning the river was a captivating sight. After resting for a while on the platform built around a banyan tree by the riverbank, we returned to the Saffron and Spices Hotel. Following lunch, we rested at 'The Elegance.'
At 4:30 PM, we set out to visit Banaras Hindu University (BHU)—a campus steeped in the grandeur of tradition, where students from all corners of the globe gather to study. It represents a vast academic community engaged in fields spanning modern technology, healthcare systems, sciences, and diverse languages.
Spanning a massive 1,500 acres, Banaras Hindu University was established in 1916 under the visionary leadership of Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya. It incorporated the Central Hindu College, which had been founded by Annie Besant in 1898. The grand initiative received crucial support from the Maharaja of Darbhanga (Rameshwar Singh), the Maharaja of Banaras (Prabhu Narayan Singh), and Advocate Sunder Lal. The institution subsequently grew into the largest residential university in Asia, with a student body exceeding thirty thousand living across sixty-five hostels. Most of the campus buildings were constructed in the grand Indo-Gothic style on 1,370 acres granted by Prabhu Narayan Singh.
Visiting the language departments, we observed active provisions for Tamil, Telugu, and Kannada. However, the Kannada department currently lacks faculty, and there are presently no students studying Malayalam—a course once offered years ago that has since been discontinued. Dr. Jagadeesan, a faculty member, shared that the Tamil department was established in 1937. Students specializing in other disciplines often select Tamil as a second language, and several research scholars are actively pursuing doctoral studies here. The department also proudly houses the Subramania Bharati Chair. Across campus in the medical and nursing colleges, there is a strong Malayali community; Jagannathan noted that they regularly organize community gatherings and lively Onam celebrations.
After spending time taking photos and videos, we headed back toward the Vishwanath Temple. Rajesh dropped us off near the Jagannath Temple. Walking through the narrow, bustling lanes, we reached a ghat where the water level remained high; despite this, a crowd had gathered to perform Bali Tharpanam (ancestral ritual offerings).
We then took an auto-rickshaw through the crowded alleys to Manikarnika Ghat, located behind the Vishwanath Temple. The river had receded significantly from where we had viewed it by boat on our first day. A slightly tilted temple—which was three-quarters submerged back then—was now fully exposed. On the upper tier, cremations were actively taking place. The ghat and surrounding lanes were teeming with people. Experiencing these two contrasting facets of the Ganges was unforgettable; the highlight was seeing in broad daylight the very spot that had appeared so dark and gloomy just ten days earlier.
On our way back, we bought traditional sweets from a century-old shop to share the sweetness of our travels with family back home.
It marked the conclusion of a long journey, yet we left Varanasi with thoughts of our next expedition already taking shape. Journeys never truly end; they endure as long as our legs allow us to wander. Every trip imparts new insight where history and real life intertwine seamlessly, proving that firsthand experiences always tell a far richer story than the tales we merely hear.
Until we gather again with stories from another journey—goodbye!
