Through the heartland
of India
Episode 1- Varanasi
By V. R. Ajith Kumar
Although I had spent
eleven long years in Delhi, I had never found the time to visit Varanasi or
Prayagraj—two cities that had lived only in my imagination through books,
stories, and the news. This September, the opportunity finally arrived. Joining
me were Hari and Radhakrishnan, friends from the Public Relations Department,
and my childhood companion Jayachandran. Hari came from Madurai, while
Jayachandran and Radhakrishnan travelled from Kollam to Chennai, where our
journey began on the morning of September 11.
A Smooth Start: Chennai to Varanasi
We flew from Chennai
to Hyderabad on Air India Express and spent two hours in transit before
boarding the connecting flight to Varanasi. Since our tickets were booked well
in advance, the round-trip fare came to just ₹10,500 per person—remarkably
economical for such a long journey.
Our tour and
accommodation were arranged by Mugini Trails, Chennai, managed by Muraleedharan
Nair. At the Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport, our driver Rajesh
awaited us with warmth and a shawl. The weather displayed a pleasant 33°C, and
a statue of Lal Bahadur Shastri set against a beautifully maintained garden
greeted visitors.
Interestingly, more
than forty passengers on our flight were from Palakkad, travelling via the
Kochi–Hyderabad–Varanasi route, although the aircraft still had many empty
seats. Varanasi, however, was brimming with activity for another reason
entirely: Mauritian Prime Minister Naveen Chandra Rangoolam, Indian Prime
Minister Narendra Modi, and Uttar Pradesh Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath were
all in the city that day. Traffic restrictions had cast their influence across
the city.
A Glimpse Into History Through a Modern Lens
Naveen Chandra
Rangoolam carries a fascinating legacy. His grandfather, Mohit Rangoolam,
migrated from Bihar’s Bhojpur district in 1896 as an indentured labourer to
Mauritius aboard the ship Hindustan. His father, Sir Seewoosagur
Rangoolam, became the first Prime Minister of independent Mauritius. Naveen
Chandra, now Prime Minister himself, often describes India as his extended
family. During his visit from September 9 to 16, 2025, he travelled to Varanasi,
Ayodhya, and Tirupati. Remarkably, the Bhojpuri language still thrives among
the descendants of Bihari migrants in Mauritius.
Settling In: First Impressions of Varanasi
Lunch awaited us at
Saffron & Spices in the Cantonment area—a bustling restaurant where we
relished a hearty thali meal before checking into our hotel, The Elegant.
True to its name, the hotel offered clean rooms and a good in-house restaurant.
Our tour package included breakfast and dinner at all accommodations.
We initially planned
to witness the famous Ganga Aarti in the evening. But Rajesh informed us that
the swelling Ganges had swallowed the ghats in recent days, forcing a temporary
suspension of the ritual.
In the evening, we
strolled along the road near our hotel. Banaras Locomotive Works stood nearby,
and the Mauritian Prime Minister’s visit there had caused complete traffic
closure. We joined the crowd lining the streets to watch the VIP convoy pass
by. Once the restrictions were lifted, the roads filled rapidly with vehicles
and people, and we set off for temple visits.
In the Labyrinth of Varanasi
Rajesh drove through
the impossibly narrow and busy lanes with astonishing ease. Our first stop was
the modern Vishwanath Temple located within the Banaras Hindu University (BHU)
campus. A serene garden, fountains, and the quiet presence of students added to
its peaceful charm.
Pandit Madan Mohan
Malaviya, the visionary founder of BHU, began construction of this temple in
1931 with support from the Birla family. Completed in 1966, the white-marble
temple rises 250 feet high. Its architecture marries the traditional Nagara
style with modern engineering. The ground floor enshrines Lord Shiva; the first
floor houses Lakshmi Narayan and Goddess Durga. Verses from the Bhagavad Gita,
Vedas, and Upanishads are etched into the walls. Importantly, Malaviya opened
the temple to people of all religions and castes—a gesture that reflected the
inclusive spirit of Hinduism. Unlike the compact, crowded surroundings of the
original Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the BHU campus offers a vast expanse of
greenery and tranquillity.
From BHU, we headed to
the historic Sankatmochan Hanuman Temple, founded in the 16th century by
poet-saint Goswami Tulsidas, who composed the Ramcharitmanas and Hanuman
Chalisa. Devotees arrive here seeking relief from adversities and planetary
doshas. Offerings include tulsi leaves and gram-flour laddus, sold abundantly
in front of the temple. Tuesdays and Saturdays draw the largest crowds.
Nearby stands the Durga
Temple, built in the 18th century by the Bengali queen Bhabani of Natore.
Its striking red façade and multi-tiered tower make it architecturally
distinct. The Tridev Mandir, also in the vicinity, houses idols of
Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva, Durga, and Hanuman and is adorned with carvings, murals,
and intricate decorations.
Another significant
stop was the Tulsi Manas Mandir, constructed in 1964 by the Surekha
family of Howrah. The entire structure, made of white stone, bears engravings
of verses from the Ramcharitmanas. Inside, the idols of Rama, Sita,
Lakshmana, and Hanuman radiate a serene grace. Policemen in uniform could be
seen offering prayers—a reminder that every individual carries personal
struggles, regardless of duty or position.
We returned to the
hotel for a simple dinner of chapati, curry, and rice—bringing to close an
eventful and fulfilling first day in Varanasi.(To be
contd---)











