Through the heartland of India---Episode 1- Varanasi

 

Through the heartland of India

Episode 1- Varanasi

By V. R. Ajith Kumar

Although I had spent eleven long years in Delhi, I had never found the time to visit Varanasi or Prayagraj—two cities that had lived only in my imagination through books, stories, and the news. This September, the opportunity finally arrived. Joining me were Hari and Radhakrishnan, friends from the Public Relations Department, and my childhood companion Jayachandran. Hari came from Madurai, while Jayachandran and Radhakrishnan travelled from Kollam to Chennai, where our journey began on the morning of September 11.

A Smooth Start: Chennai to Varanasi

We flew from Chennai to Hyderabad on Air India Express and spent two hours in transit before boarding the connecting flight to Varanasi. Since our tickets were booked well in advance, the round-trip fare came to just ₹10,500 per person—remarkably economical for such a long journey.

Our tour and accommodation were arranged by Mugini Trails, Chennai, managed by Muraleedharan Nair. At the Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport, our driver Rajesh awaited us with warmth and a shawl. The weather displayed a pleasant 33°C, and a statue of Lal Bahadur Shastri set against a beautifully maintained garden greeted visitors.

Interestingly, more than forty passengers on our flight were from Palakkad, travelling via the Kochi–Hyderabad–Varanasi route, although the aircraft still had many empty seats. Varanasi, however, was brimming with activity for another reason entirely: Mauritian Prime Minister Naveen Chandra Rangoolam, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, and Uttar Pradesh Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath were all in the city that day. Traffic restrictions had cast their influence across the city.

A Glimpse Into History Through a Modern Lens

Naveen Chandra Rangoolam carries a fascinating legacy. His grandfather, Mohit Rangoolam, migrated from Bihar’s Bhojpur district in 1896 as an indentured labourer to Mauritius aboard the ship Hindustan. His father, Sir Seewoosagur Rangoolam, became the first Prime Minister of independent Mauritius. Naveen Chandra, now Prime Minister himself, often describes India as his extended family. During his visit from September 9 to 16, 2025, he travelled to Varanasi, Ayodhya, and Tirupati. Remarkably, the Bhojpuri language still thrives among the descendants of Bihari migrants in Mauritius.

Settling In: First Impressions of Varanasi

Lunch awaited us at Saffron & Spices in the Cantonment area—a bustling restaurant where we relished a hearty thali meal before checking into our hotel, The Elegant. True to its name, the hotel offered clean rooms and a good in-house restaurant. Our tour package included breakfast and dinner at all accommodations.

We initially planned to witness the famous Ganga Aarti in the evening. But Rajesh informed us that the swelling Ganges had swallowed the ghats in recent days, forcing a temporary suspension of the ritual.

In the evening, we strolled along the road near our hotel. Banaras Locomotive Works stood nearby, and the Mauritian Prime Minister’s visit there had caused complete traffic closure. We joined the crowd lining the streets to watch the VIP convoy pass by. Once the restrictions were lifted, the roads filled rapidly with vehicles and people, and we set off for temple visits.

In the Labyrinth of Varanasi

Rajesh drove through the impossibly narrow and busy lanes with astonishing ease. Our first stop was the modern Vishwanath Temple located within the Banaras Hindu University (BHU) campus. A serene garden, fountains, and the quiet presence of students added to its peaceful charm.

Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya, the visionary founder of BHU, began construction of this temple in 1931 with support from the Birla family. Completed in 1966, the white-marble temple rises 250 feet high. Its architecture marries the traditional Nagara style with modern engineering. The ground floor enshrines Lord Shiva; the first floor houses Lakshmi Narayan and Goddess Durga. Verses from the Bhagavad Gita, Vedas, and Upanishads are etched into the walls. Importantly, Malaviya opened the temple to people of all religions and castes—a gesture that reflected the inclusive spirit of Hinduism. Unlike the compact, crowded surroundings of the original Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the BHU campus offers a vast expanse of greenery and tranquillity.

From BHU, we headed to the historic Sankatmochan Hanuman Temple, founded in the 16th century by poet-saint Goswami Tulsidas, who composed the Ramcharitmanas and Hanuman Chalisa. Devotees arrive here seeking relief from adversities and planetary doshas. Offerings include tulsi leaves and gram-flour laddus, sold abundantly in front of the temple. Tuesdays and Saturdays draw the largest crowds.

Nearby stands the Durga Temple, built in the 18th century by the Bengali queen Bhabani of Natore. Its striking red façade and multi-tiered tower make it architecturally distinct. The Tridev Mandir, also in the vicinity, houses idols of Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva, Durga, and Hanuman and is adorned with carvings, murals, and intricate decorations.

Another significant stop was the Tulsi Manas Mandir, constructed in 1964 by the Surekha family of Howrah. The entire structure, made of white stone, bears engravings of verses from the Ramcharitmanas. Inside, the idols of Rama, Sita, Lakshmana, and Hanuman radiate a serene grace. Policemen in uniform could be seen offering prayers—a reminder that every individual carries personal struggles, regardless of duty or position.

We returned to the hotel for a simple dinner of chapati, curry, and rice—bringing to close an eventful and fulfilling first day in Varanasi.(To be contd---)