Kodaikanal Again – A Return After Twenty Years

 

Kodaikanal Again – A Return After Twenty Years

My first memory of Kodaikanal goes back about twenty years. Kodaikanal, with its pleasant scenery and enchanting beauty, was a familiar backdrop in many Malayalam films of that time. Our first trip was a big family outing. We travelled from Paravur, Kollam, and reached Kodaikanal late in the evening. The team included me, Jayasree, Sreekutty, Sreekuttan, Sajeev, Vijayasree, Unnikuttan, Unnikannan, Shibu, Deepa, and Anagha. Since Sajeev was an employee of the State Bank of Travancore, we stayed at the SBT guesthouse.

That night, after a short break, we went to the lakeside where I enthusiastically took a bicycle and pedalled around the lake—not once or twice, but three full rounds. I sweated a lot but felt confident, even though I occasionally suffered from eosinophilia. Unfortunately, that confidence didn’t last. Back in the room, the cold climate and my allergy to wool triggered shortness of breath and severe sneezing. I somehow endured a sleepless night. The next day, while the others went sightseeing, I stayed indoors. Only when we began the descent down the mountain in the evening did I feel some relief. After that experience, though I thought of returning to Kodaikanal many times, my mind always said no.

For many Malayalis, Kodaikanal is like a neighbour’s home—close and familiar. Some visit every month, and many even own houses there.

My second trip to Kodaikanal happened in June 2025, starting from Sivaganga. This time, the group included Unnikuttan, Pooja, and Unnikannan—who had recently returned from Canada—along with Jayasree, Sreekutty, Sreekuttan, Padmavati, and me. We set off in the afternoon. The distance to Kodaikanal is about 180 km, taking at least four hours to cover. Our route passed through Melur, Madurai, Thirumangalam, Usilampatti, and Perumalmalai. We stopped at Usilampatti for tea. The journey offered beautiful views—mountains, greenery, and shimmering lakes. The winding roads and sharp curves added to the thrill. Sreekuttan, who loves driving, enjoyed every turn.

However, the journey was not without its troubles. Pooja developed a neck pain, and Unnikannan suffered from food poisoning. By the time we reached the town after the mountain climb, I too began to feel queasy and feared I might vomit. We had arranged to stay at a private holiday home owned by a Sivaganga resident. Only the owner and his guests use this property. The caretaker, Shiva, and his wife Rani look after the house and prepare food.

Following Google’s directions, we mistakenly drove to a dead end. It was night, the road was deserted, and darkness surrounded us. After calling Shiva, we realized we had overshot the location. With difficulty, Sree turned the car around. Shiva came out to guide us, and soon we reached the house, where dinner was ready as we had informed them earlier. The food was delicious. Rani even prepared a light porridge for Unnikannan and Shiva arranged for a doctor’s visit the next day, as his vomiting and diarrhoea were severe.

The weather was pleasantly cold, but I took all necessary precautions, mindful of my earlier experience. Early in the morning, Sreekutty and I went for a walk. The valley was silent except for the distant sounds of construction. The peace and stillness of Kodaikanal are more precious than its sights. Along the path, we saw vibrant flowers, a male peacock dancing, and a female peacock calmly walking away, indifferent to the show.

In daylight, I could fully appreciate the house we were staying in—a three-storey building built on rocks. The caretaker’s family lived on the ground floor. The main entrance was on the first floor, with a spacious hall, a kitchen, and a balcony. Three small bedrooms occupied the top floor. It was a cosy and comfortable stay.

After tea, I took a bath and had breakfast. From the balcony, Unnikuttan and Unnikannan captured breathtaking drone shots of the valley. With Unnikannan feeling better, we decided not to call the doctor. He, Pooja, Jayasree, and Padmavati chose to rest while the rest of us went out exploring.

Our first stop was the famous star-shaped Kodaikanal Lake. Small shops lined the roadside, selling homemade chocolates, decorative crafts, and toys. We sipped spicy ginger tea at a stall run by Mohammed from Malappuram. People were boating and cycling, but we chose to simply enjoy the view. Situated 7,200 feet above sea level, Kodaikanal was a favourite of the British, who created this artificial lake in 1863. With a circumference of five kilometres, it remains the town’s main attraction.

From there, we visited Bryant Park and then walked along Coaker’s Walk before heading to Pillar Rocks. These three giant rock formations are usually a stunning sight, but on this day, thick fog allowed us only faint glimpses. Nearby, the Green Valley View ,formerly known as Suicide Point  and Dolphin’s Nose were also bustling with visitors.

Our next stop was the Guna Caves, a place of mystery and danger. Originally known as Devil’s Kitchen, it became famous after the Tamil film Guna was shot there. Over the years, many people have lost their lives after falling into the deep crevices between the rocks—so deep that their bodies were never recovered. Perhaps that’s why it was once called Devil’s Kitchen. Following the release of the Malayalam film Manjummal Boys last year, the caves have attracted even more visitors. Nature has created a chilling atmosphere here—twisted tree roots resembling intertwined snakes, massive rocks, and a mist that adds an eerie beauty. As we explored, heavy rain began to fall, doubling the wildness of the scene and drenching us completely.

After the rain eased, we made a brief stop at the pine forest. Hungry and tired, we admired the towering pines from outside before heading back to our accommodation for lunch and a short rest. By evening, we began the long descent and finally reached Sivaganga late at night.

After twenty long years, I returned to Kodaikanal. This second visit, though brief, allowed me to experience the hill station’s timeless charm once again—this time through a misty, smoky veil that made it feel even more magical.